Kiteboarding Magazine

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2009-10-27 16:59:46 | 567 views | 0 Comments

KITES
Selecting the proper-size kite
Wintertime winds tend to blow much more “dense” than their summer counterparts, meaning the wind is more full. Use a smaller kite than you would for winds of the same speed in the summer. There is also much less friction between your board and the snow than on water, letting you ride with less power.
The first time we hit the snow was with a leading-edge inflatable (LEI). We kited the same spot we had hit all summer and immediately found it was easier to edge and stay upwind. The toughest decision you'll face in kite snowboarding is which kite to use: LEI or foil. Both work great, but each has pros and cons.

Leading-edge inflatable
PROS: LEI kites are what most of us use in the water, with all of the same flying characteristics. LEI kites are more performance-oriented and work better for technical powered tricks and kite loops.
CONS: Relaunching without a fifth line or a Cabrinha Recon will try your patience, since snow gives little friction for the kite to flip, and you run a greater risk of damaging your sail on hard objects. Plus, if you thought pumping up in the parking lot was a pain, try it in minus 10 degrees. Consider pumping up before heading out to the spot.

Foil
PROS: The fact that you can leave your pump in the trunk gets you kiting faster, and a foil's durability lets it take a better beating in the snow than you will. Also, foils were made for backcountry riding because they transport easily and relaunch with minimal effort, and provide a large degree of safety since they can be depowered quickly by simply letting go of the bar.
CONS: Since a foil is typically not the kite you use on the water, expect to adjust your riding style.

BOARDS
For kite snowboarding we prefer a symmetrical twin-tip freestyle board. Tuning your board for kite snowboarding is not as crucial as it is for the slopes, and we typically find ourselves detuning our boards for hitting sliders and jibbing.

Length
Look for a snowboard that is long enough for your size (for example, 160 cm for a 5-foot-10 person) with enough base to get you through the rough stuff. A small board is much more sensitive and more prone to loss of control.

Width
We suggest a board that is no more than one inch wider than the length of your feet, which allows you to edge hard and not have to worry about heel or toe drag. If your heels or toes are hanging off either end, you will catch them in the snow and lose your edge; if the board is too wide, you lose some of your edging feel.

Flex
A stiff board allows you to edge hard, and performs very well in deep powder. A flexible board gets a bit more “pop,” especially in harder base and freestyle “park riding” tricks.

SKIS
Fatter twin-tip skis work best. You can step around to get in the right position to launch.

BINDINGS
Controlling the kite while putting on your board at the same time makes standard ratchet bindings difficult. We suggest step-in bindings, which work great when launching and also for those moments when you need to make a quick exit to relaunch or land your kite.

CLOTHING
Although you will freeze your ass off getting rigged, five minutes into your session you will be sweating bullets. Wear layers and strip down accordingly. We have gone out on days when it was below zero, but once we got riding and pushing each other, we would overheat and have to shed some layers. There have also been times when it's a sunny day out and you undress a bit, but once you stop for a break you lose all your body heat.

Pants
Invest in a nice pair of snow pants with a connected bib that straps over your shoulders. When your kite drags you through the snow face first (and this will happen a lot), you'll thank us for not having snow-packed pants. Get a pair with minimal buckles and seams lying where your harness rests to avoid irritating your pressure points, and find one that rides high up on your chest for a much more comfortable session.

Gloves
Choose a pair that will keep you just warm enough while allowing a solid grip on your bar.  Remember, snow and ice will accumulate on your bar, so a solid grip is very necessary. Pick gloves without a lot of material around the wrist.

Protective gear
Typically, more is better than less. Wear good elbow pads and kneepads - there is nothing worse than starting off your season with a huge elbow or knee bruise that bothers you the rest of the year. Dress as though you are going snowboarding; the more protective gear you wear the more confidence you gain. Most importantly, never go kite snowboarding without a helmet. Ice hurts, plus a helmet keeps your ears warm and cozy.

TECHNIQUE
With kite snowboarding, you no longer have to deal with the water element because you're already up on the board just by launching your kite. Advanced riders working on touching up surface handle-pass tricks, hitting sliders and kickers, and even kite loops will love the snow. We have seen many riders who struggled in the water spend one season on the snow, where they were able to dial in all their kite flying and edging skills, and once the water season hit again they were instantly riding well and staying upwind.

Launching
Getting your kite in the air is the same as for the water. It is always best to have someone launch your kite for you from the edge of the wind window toward an open area, and as always unhooked. You can launch either in or out of your board depending on how difficult it is to get into your bindings. If the surface is hard and slick, launch the kite sitting down, so you don't get yanked off your feet. Self-launch by putting a kite weight or a pillowcase filled with a few pounds of sand on the wingtip.

Staying upwind
Focus on your edging technique by keeping your front leg straight and putting your body weight on your back leg, which is so much easier because you're already on the surface. With a solid surface, a sharp rail and a little weight on your edge, upwind carving is a breeze.

Progression
Work on riding toeside or trying to improve the transitions that gave you so much trouble on the water. If you are looking for air, hold a solid edge and focus on loading up your kite before sending it. Just practice on a deep base of at least 12 inches of packed snow. Managing the kite for a soft landing is critical, so jump small at first to develop your “snow rhythm.”

WHERE TO KITE
Now all those smaller inland lakes become powder-covered dreamlands, and that farmer's field becomes a park full of sliders, kickers and rolling hills. Kite snowboarding is about the thousands of square miles of snow-covered flatlands that are now virtually untapped.

Lakes
Remember to check for adequate ice conditions. You want at least 10 to 20 inches of ice with a nice snow base. If possible, talk with a local ice fisherman before kiting on an unfamiliar lake. Avoid lakes that have glare-ice spots or just a dusting of snow over solid ice, and look for at least 4-8 inches of hard, crusty snow topped with 6-12 inches of thick powder. This allows you to edge hard without scraping on the ice.

Fields
Stick with open fields you are familiar with and have seen during the summer months, so you don't hit any random rocks, posts or hard objects that were covered by the snow. If you can, talk with the landowner to get the inside scoop - it only takes one frozen cow patty to ruin a session.

Mountains
Although it seems counterintuitive, mountains don't offer the best conditions for kit
e snowboarding. Remember, with kiteboarding you need to have clean, steady wind, and sometimes mountains have gusty winds due to the quick changes in elevation that send the wind in all directions. Find a wide-open area that is somewhat flat where the wind comes in clean and you will have a much better time. Until you have significant experience, try to stay clear of steep grades or areas near cliffs or drop-offs.